Skipped stitches, puckered seams, thread that snaps halfway down a hem. Nine times out of ten the machine is fine, and the needle is wrong for the fabric.
A pack of needles is one of the cheapest things in your sewing box, and it changes how your whole machine behaves. Match the needle to your fabric and most sewing problems disappear before they start.
How to read the numbers
Every needle carries a size such as 80/12. The first number is the one to remember: the smaller it is, the finer the needle.
| Size | Fabric weight | Typical fabrics |
|---|---|---|
| 60 to 70 | Light | Chiffon, voile, lining, fine cotton lawn |
| 80 | Medium | Kitenge, poplin, quilting cotton, shirting |
| 90 | Medium to heavy | Linen, twill, light denim, school uniform fabric |
| 100 to 110 | Heavy | Denim, canvas, upholstery fabric |
When to change your needle
Fit a new needle after about eight hours of sewing, or at the start of every big project. A blunt needle is one of the most common causes of skipped stitches, and you cannot see the damage with your eye.
The point matters as much as the size
Two needles of the same size can behave completely differently. The shape of the tip decides whether the needle slips between the threads of your fabric or cuts through them.
For everyday woven fabric
Universal needles
KES 800 a pack
The needle to reach for unless your fabric needs something special. Its slightly rounded tip passes cleanly through cotton, kitenge, poplin and most blends. Keep sizes 80 and 90 in your sewing box at all times.
See universal needles
For T-shirts and knits
Ballpoint needles
KES 800 a pack
If your machine skips stitches on jersey, this is the fix. The rounded tip slides between the loops of a knit fabric instead of piercing them, so you get no holes, no ladders and no skipped stitches.
See ballpoint needles
For denim and canvas
Jeans needles
KES 1,000 a pack
A reinforced blade and a sharp, slim point go straight through dense weaves and thick seams without bending. Use them for jeans hems, canvas bags, heavy twill and workwear.
See jeans needles
For fine and slippery fabric
Microtex needles
KES 1,100 a pack
A very slim, sharp point for silk, taffeta, microfibre and tightly woven cotton. It gives the straightest topstitching of any needle, which is why dressmakers love it for collars and cuffs.
See Microtex needles
For quilts and layers
Quilting needles
KES 1,150 a pack
Made to stitch through a quilt top, wadding and backing at once, and to cross bulky seam allowances without skipping. If you quilt, these earn their place.
See quilting needlesThree quick rules
Match the needle size to the fabric weight, and the point to the fabric type.
Thicker thread needs a bigger needle. If the thread shreds, go up a size.
When something goes wrong, change the needle first. It is the cheapest fix there is.
Not sure which needle you need?
Bring a scrap of your fabric to our shop on the 1st floor of Sarit Centre and we will match a needle to it.
Shop all machine needlesOr call us on +254 798 316860
We stock Bernina, Schmetz and Prym machine needles, and we are Kenya's authorised Bernina and bernette distributor.
Prices correct at the time of writing.
